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Backyard Habitat

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« on: February 19, 2009, 05:21:00 pm »

Seasonality
Part one
Providing food and cover year-round requires a variety of trees, shrubs and other plants. It is important to think about wildlife needs during each season. The longer the period when flowers, seeds and fruits are available, the better. Fall, winter and early spring foods are critical to the survival of resident wildlife, as well as migrating species. Summer foods are important because during reproduction, energy needs of wildlife are very high. Cover is always necessary whether for nesting sites, shelter from weather, escape from predators, or for roosting. Conifers, cavity trees, and brush and rock piles provide winter shelter.

Arrangement

Thinking "crooked," allowing ready access to food, water and cover, is an advantage in creating the backyard habitat. Curves and clusters are visually appealing to us, and more attractive to wildlife. Food, cover and water need to be arranged near each other. Feeders with no nearby cover will either not be used, or may increase mortality through exposure to adverse weather or by predation. Plant conifers to break the prevailing winds, and on the protected side of the windbreak, have feeders and plants, and shrubs with berries. Perhaps your house serves as the windbreak to important feeding and nesting areas. When placing nest boxes, locate them to meet the needs of the species for which the nest box is intended.

Protection

Predation: Protecting wildlife from unnecessary mortality is an important consideration as you develop your backyard habitat. Natural predation is natural. Although free-ranging dogs and cats are natural hunters, they are not part of natural predation. In Wisconsin, for example, a recent study estimated 35 million birds are killed each year by free-ranging domestic cats. To offer protection for birds, feeders should be 10 feet from cover, and birdbaths should be 15 feet from cover, because cats use the cover to ambush birds using them. Declawing or putting bells on cats is only partially effective. Of course, your own cats can be kept indoors. Talk with your veterinarian about the benefits of indoor cats. Dogs can be a danger and a disturbance to wildlife, especially in nesting season, and need to be kept under control. See University of Maine Cooperative Extension Bulletin #7148, Facts on Cats and Wildlife: A Conservation Dilemma.

Windows: Windows reflect the sky and vegetation, so songbirds sometimes fly into them, breaking their necks. To prevent crashes, try placing any of the following on the outside of the window: a falcon cut-out silhouette, parallel strings stretched across the window, or a mobile of pine cones or dead branches. Locating feeders 30 feet from your house, or right next to your windows, can help reduce the number of birds that fly into the windows. Feeders right on or next to your house, however, may attract skunks, mice or other animals too near your home.

Nest boxes: House sparrows and starlings are exotic birds and tend to drive native songbirds away from boxes, or kill them in the nest box. Incorrectly designed nest boxes can become death traps. It is essential, when you buy or make nest boxes, to have ones designed specifically for the bird species you have in mind. Take perches off all nest boxes. Find out how and where to place nest boxes to reduce predation by cats and raccoons. Get good information on nest boxes before buying or making one.

Sanitation: It is extremely important to keep bird feeders, nest boxes and birdbaths clean.

There are five diseases associated with bird feeders, all of which can lead to death. The causes of the diseases are food and water contaminated by mold, fungus and infected feces, and surfaces contaminated by viruses from other sick birds. We can recognize sick birds because their feathers look unkempt, and they are less alert, less active, feed less, and are often reluctant to fly away.

You can prevent or reduce disease problems at your feeders by taking the following steps:

    * Every few days clean up waste food and droppings from the ground.
    * Avoid crowding by providing ample feeder space.
    * Use feeders that don’t have sharp points or edges. Bacteria and viruses on contaminated surfaces infect healthy birds through even small scratches.
    * Clean and disinfect feeders once or twice a month, and more often if you observe sick birds. Immerse an empty cleaned feeder for two or three minutes in a solution of one part liquid chlorine household bleach and nine parts warm water. Allow the feeder to air dry.
    * Use only good food. Discard food that smells musty, is wet, looks moldy or has fungus growing on it. Discard any food that has had rodents in it. Disinfect the storage container and food scoop that have come in contact with the spoiled food.
    * Every day, rinse birdbaths and replace the water. Twice a week scrub them with a plastic bristle brush and mild dish detergent, and rinse thoroughly before refilling. Once every two weeks, after scrubbing the bath, fill it with a ten percent bleach and water solution. Let it stand for three minutes, pour out the water, and let it air dry. Rinse well with water and let it air dry again before refilling with water.
    * Prevent diseases by taking these steps, and don’t wait until you notice sick birds.
    * Tell your neighbors who feed birds about these precautions. Birds move among feeders and spread diseases as they go.

Feeder nectar ferments in two to three days. Drinking fermented nectar causes enlarged livers in hummingbirds, and may have the same effect on orioles. Buy nectar feeders that come apart so that all surfaces can be scrubbed. Nectar feeders should be cleaned and disinfected every two days, as already described. Be sure to rinse the nectar feeder after it has been immersed in the bleach-water solution.

Many people feed suet all year, but sun-warmed suet can cause infected follicles and loss of facial feathers. It can mat feathers, reducing insulation and waterproofing. Use suet only from October through April or May, depending on the temperatures. See University of Maine Cooperative Extension Bulletin #7145, Keeping Your Yard Safe for Birds.

Chemical fertilizers and pesticides: Many common house and yard chemicals are a danger to wildlife and humans. Birds eat granules or eat prey that have been exposed to chemicals. If you use any chemicals, use only as directed. Even then, many are lethal to wildlife. Rethink your use of these substances. Choose plant species that are resistant to diseases and pests. Let the many wildlife species that eat insects be your insect control. Autumn, the end of the growing season, is naturally a time when plants show the effects of insects feeding. Be tolerant of insect damage. Mulches of compost or leaves add nutrients to the soil and strengthen plants’ ability to ward off diseases. See University of Maine Cooperative Extension Bulletin #7150, Beneficial Insects and Spiders in Your Maine Backyard.

Keeping Your Yard Safe for Birds
Many of us enjoy attracting birds to our yards. We do it to help the birds and because we take pleasure in their presence. There are responsibilities, obligations really, we accept when we do this. When we attract birds to our yards, we want to offer an environment free of dangers from human practices.

An essential responsibility is proper sanitation and upkeep of feeding stations so that we don’t undermine our good intentions. The National Wildlife Health Center of the U.S. Geological Survey conducts research on diseases in wildlife. In recent years, they have reported unprecedented songbird mortality events and have identified backyard feeding stations as playing a significant role in the situation.

Diseases Associated with Birds Using Feeders

There are five diseases associated with bird feeders, all of which can lead to death directly or indirectly because the birds are more vulnerable to weather, poor nutrition and concurrent infections. These diseases are: salmonellosis, tric*bleep*niasis, aspergillosis, avian pox and mycoplasmosis. The causes of the diseases are food and water contaminated by mold, fungus and infected feces, and surfaces contaminated by viruses from other sick birds. We can recognize sick birds by their unkempt feathers, or they may appear fat or puffed up. Sick birds are less alert, less active, feed less and are often reluctant to fly away as you approach them.

Maintaining Feeders and Bird Baths

You can prevent or reduce disease problems at your feeders by taking these measures. Prevent disease by taking these steps. Don’t wait until you notice sick birds.

    * Clean and disinfect feeders once or twice a month; and more often if you observe sick birds. Immerse an empty, cleaned feeder for two or three minutes in a solution of one part liquid chlorine household bleach and nine parts warm water, a 10 percent solution. Allow the feeder to air dry. Do not use vinegar as a substitute for bleach because it does not destroy bacteria, mold or yeast.
    * Every few days, clean up waste food and droppings from the ground. A shovel and broom work well for this, or use a rake. Discard the seed waste with the household trash.
    * If you suspect a disease problem, rake the area under the feeder and cover the ground with a tarp for one to two weeks to prevent further contact between the contaminated site and unaffected birds. You can continue to use your feeder once it is clean, but it is recommended that you regularly relocate it a short distance away from the previous location to prevent the build-up of contaminated seeds and droppings.
    * Avoid crowding by providing an ample number of feeders. If you notice sick birds, you might stop feeding altogether until the epidemic is over, or until the next season.
    * Use feeders that don’t have sharp points or edges. Bacteria and viruses on contaminated surfaces infect healthy birds through even small scratches.
    * Use only good food. Discard food that smells musty, is wet, looks moldy or has fungus growing on it. Discard any food that has had rodents in it. Disinfect the storage container and food scoop that have come in contact with spoiled food.
    * Every day, rinse birdbaths and replace the water. Twice a week, scrub them with a plastic bristle brush and mild dish detergent, and rinse thoroughly before refilling. Once every two weeks, scrub the bath with dish detergent, rinse, then fill with a 10 percent bleach and water solution. Let it stand for two to three minutes. Pour it out and allow to air dry, then rinse it well and air dry again. Refill the bath with water. What infected birds need most is water, which must be kept extremely clean and fresh to stop the spread of disease.
    * When cleaning your feeders and bird baths, wear gloves and wash your hands afterwards. Avian salmonellosis, one of the diseases common among birds using feeders, is a strain of bacteria that can potentially affect humans and pets. Dispose of dead birds by tightly wrapping them, then place in outdoor garbage containers with tight lids.
    * Tell your neighbors who feed birds about these precautions. Birds move among feeders and spread diseases as they go.

Nectar Feeders*

In the very early and very late periods of the breeding season when flowering plants are scarce, nectar feeders may be helpful, but only if kept perfectly clean and filled with fresh nectar. Improper maintenance can kill birds.

Good reasons to avoid artificial nectar feeders:

    * Artificial nectar ferments quickly, in one to two days. Fermented nectar ingested by birds enlarges their livers.
    * Mold and bacteria grow quickly in artificial nectar and can harm the birds.
    * Artificial nectar does not provide the nutrients that are in floral nectar. Natural food sources are far superior to artificial nectar and provide a balanced diet.
    * Because hummingbirds are aggressively territorial, experts suspect that competition at feeders may be extreme and very stressful.

If you decide to offer artificial nectar, consider doing so only during May, September and early October, when natural nectar sources are scarce. The risk to the birds will be less, and the work of keeping the feeders clean is limited to just a few months.

*Special thanks to Mahmoud El-Begearmi, Extension professor, nutrition and food safety, for his assistance on maintenance and sanitation of nectar feeders.

Maintenance and sanitation of nectar feeders:

    * Make artificial nectar by mixing one part table sugar in four parts boiling water. Stir to dissolve the sugar. Cool before filling feeders. Refrigerate any remaining nectar; dispose of unused nectar after one week.
    * Do not add food coloring: it may cause health problems in birds.
    * Do not use honey or artificial sweeteners, as these may also cause health problems.
    * Use feeders that come apart so that all surfaces can be scrubbed.
    * Place feeders in the shade in areas safe from cats.
    * Clean and sanitize nectar feeders every two days, and more often in hot weather.

a) Instructions for using a dishwasher:
— Cleaning nectar feeders in the dishwasher at the regular setting, with a water temperature of 130 degrees F, will wash and sanitize the feeders.
—If your feeder is a narrow-neck globe design, place the globe on the bottom shelf of the dishwasher with the open side down. Rising steam will fill the globe and kill any bacteria and mold. Other parts of the feeder with small openings should also be loaded, open side down, on the bottom shelf of the dishwasher. The upward spray of water is stronger on the bottom shelf of the dishwasher than on the top shelf. If your feeder design allows easy access to all surfaces, any location in the dishwasher is okay.
— Do not open the dishwasher until it has completely finished the cycles. The final hot air cycle is when the sanitizing takes place.
— Be sure your nectar feeders are dishwasher-safe. If they are not, plastic feeders may melt or become misshapen; glass globes may break.

b) Instructions for washing by hand and bleaching:
— Scrub all feeder parts with a drop or two of dish detergent and rinse well. When feeder is cool, immerse it in a 10% bleach solution (one cup of household bleach to nine cups of water) for at least three minutes. Rinse well and air dry before filling with fresh nectar. If you have two nectar feeders, you can fill and hang one while the other is being cleaned and air-dried.

Bleach will kill bacteria and mold: vinegar is not an adequate substitute for bleach. Be sure to rinse off all bleach and soap thoroughly and allow the feeder to air dry. Soap or bleach residue in the feeder will harm birds.

You can reuse the bleach solution for up to three weeks by keeping it in a large plastic storage container with a tight-fitting lid. This way, after washing the feeder you can immerse it in the container to sanitize it. Fecal matter and other organic materials, as well as air, heat and light, can spoil the bleach solution. Washing the feeder before bleaching it will assure that organic material does not enter the solution. After three weeks, dispose of the bleach solution by flushing it down the toilet.

For a list of hummingbird nectar plants, see University of Maine Cooperative Extension bulletin #7152 Understanding Ruby-Throated Hummingbirds.

Suet

Many people feed suet all year, but sun-warmed suet can cause infected follicles and loss of facial feathers. It can mat feathers, reducing insulation and water-proofing. Use suet only from October through April or May, depending on the temperatures.

Other Safety Concerns

There are several other things to think about when inviting birds into your yard.

    * Irregular feeding may be a disadvantage for birds that establish habitual foraging patterns.
    * Free-ranging cats prey on birds feeding on the ground and at feeders. Placing feeders 10 feet from cover, and birdbaths 15 feet from cover, helps to lessen this danger.
    * Many birds die each year from landscape pesticides, when they eat pesticide granules or eat poisoned prey, such as insects. You can reduce or eliminate your use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides by using disease- and pest-resistant plant varieties, cultivating native plant species, and reducing the lawn area. By managing your yard naturally, you can increase natural insect predators such as ladybugs, praying mantises, toads and birds. Leaf mulches and compost add nutrients to soil and eliminate the need for weed killers and fertilizers.
    * Bird feeders and birdbaths located near traffic can cause unnecessary bird mortalities. They are also a potential danger to motorists who try to avoid birds flying low across the road. Trees and shrubs with attractive fruit near roads may also be a problem. If siting options are limited, a fence between the road and the area frequented by birds may help direct the flight of the birds above traffic.
    * Potential problems can be avoided by good nest box design, placement and upkeep. Birds using the box will be less likely to become prey to other birds and mammals, and eggs will be less likely to overheat. Avoid poisonous vapors from pressure-treated lumber, paint or stain. Use nest boxes specifically designed for the species of bird you want to attract. Get good information before buying or building a nest box. (See University of Maine Cooperative Extension bulletin #7117, Birdhouse Basics.)

Enhancing Your Backyard Habitat

Feeders should be thought of as a supplement to natural foods, not a replacement for them. Natural sources of food that we can plant in our yards include shrubs and trees that bear berries and fruits, evergreens with their seed cones, and plants that provide flower nectar and seeds. Plantings also offer cover, for shelter from the elements, nesting sites, hiding places from predators, perches and resting spots. (For more information on backyard habitats, see University of Maine Cooperative Extension bulletin # 7133, Components of Backyard Habitat, and # 7132, Principles for Creating a Backyard Habitat, all fact sheets in the Habitats fact sheet series.)

We feed birds to help them and because we enjoy watching them. Plantings for wildlife increase the appeal of our yards, and so serve both purposes. Each of us doing our part to help wildlife makes a really big contribution overall.

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When all is done that is asked from me and I can fly no higher, I pray this day his hand extends to welcome home a flier.

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« Reply #1 on: February 19, 2009, 05:21:47 pm »

Part two
HOMES FOR
WILDLIFE II
PLANS
http://www.michigandnr.com/publications/pdfs/huntingwildlifehabitat/Landowners_Guide/Habitat_Mgmt/Backyard/Homes_II.htm

BIRD AND OTHER
WILDLIFE FEEDERS
http://www.michigandnr.com/publications/pdfs/huntingwildlifehabitat/Landowners_Guide/Habitat_Mgmt/Backyard/Bird_and_Other_Wildlife.htm

Toad House
http://www.michigan.gov/dnr/0,1607,7-153-10370_12148-60160--,00.html

HOMES FOR WILDLIFE

Wildlife depends on four habitat components for survival: food, water, cover, and space. Depending on the species, the amount and type of each of these components varies. This chapter will focus on one of these components, that of cover. Cover types could vary from woodlands to grasslands to wetlands. After assessing what cover types are available on your property, you can determine what species you will be able to attract. If cover is not present, but other habitat components for a species are, then adding cover may make your yard more attractive to certain species of wildlife. By planting trees, shrubs, grasses, and flowers, you can provide cover and attract even more wildlife. In doing so, you will provide a more diverse habitat, and increase the likelihood of attracting wildlife by meeting all four of the habitat components.

Providing homes for wildlife will help fulfill their cover requirements. Wildlife homes can be either vegetative (grasses, shrubs, trees) or structural (stones, underground dens, brush piles, nest boxes, cylinders). These homes offer protection from not only predators, but also weather elements such as cold winter winds or hot summer days. Birds use these homes for shelter, nesting, and brood rearing. This chapter explains what homes can be provided for wildlife to enhance the cover on your property. The supplemental chapter Homes for Wildlife II provides the plans for the homes described here. Refer to the chapter on Bird and Other Wildlife Feeders for information on how to provide the habitat component of food to your backyard.
Vegetative Homes

There are many types of natural homes that you can provide for wildlife on your property. In addition to planting trees, shrubs, and grasses that provide a variety of wildlife with places to nest, seek shelter, and raise their young, there may also be other natural homes that could be created on your land that also provide cover for wildlife.
Snags

Snags are standing, dead, or dying trees, which provide excellent natural homes for a variety of wildlife. Wildlife that inhabit these snags, such as woodpeckers, nuthatches, bluebirds, squirrels, and raccoons, are called cavity nesters. The type of wildlife that inhabit these snags will also depend on the kind, size, and location of the snag.

There are two basic kinds of snags: hard or soft. Hard snags have rotten centers with a solid exterior and a few limbs. These usually make the best den trees as the center can be easily excavated to form a home. Trees that usually form good cavities are large hardwoods that decay slowly such as sugar maple, elm, black and white oak, hickory, and butternut. Soft snags have softer exterior wood, and usually have no limbs. These snags usually make good foraging sites for insect-eating birds, as well as nesting sites for woodpeckers, chickadees, and nuthatches. Trees that often form soft snags have short life spans, and rot quickly. These too are important to wildlife as they produce cavities more quickly than harder wood, as well as habitat for many insects that provide food for birds, mammals, amphibians, and reptiles. Coniferous snags do not usually last as long as hardwoods, and are usually not used for den trees. One exception to this is northern white cedar, as it makes an excellent cavity tree. Other conifers, such as white pine and tamarack, make excellent nest and perch sites for eagles and osprey when located next to water.

In general, regardless of the kind of snag, the larger it is the more wildlife it can support. The best den trees, live or dead, are over 15 inches diameter at breast height (DBH) with a den opening of four inches or more. Keep an eye out for trees that appear to be potential snags. These trees have large, sprawling branches, and often are fruit and nut producers. Missing or bare branches, fungal growth, wounds, and discolored bark are all signs of a dying tree. Also, look for woodpecker holes, which usually indicate a rotting core.

If you do not have any snags on your property, consider creating some. Remember that it will take a while before newly created snags will be suitable for wildlife. Therefore, to speed up the process, try to pick trees that appear to be dying, and that are over a foot in diameter. With an axe, cut away a two inch band of bark around the entire circumference of the trunk, removing the bark and cutting into the sapwood. This is known as girdling, and will kill the tree as it disrupts the flow of nutrients. To simply create a den, cut off a four to six inch limb about six inches from the trunk. This will wound the tree and allow the decaying process to start, eventually forming a cavity where the limb was cut.

The kinds of wildlife your snag will attract will also depend on where it is located. Snags are most commonly associated with forests. Many forest mammals, such as bats, bobcats, bears, pine martens, porcupines, red squirrels, and gray foxes, use snags for dens and lookouts. Forest birds also frequently use these snags; woodpeckers are usually the primary excavators. Other birds, such as the saw-whet owl, black-capped chickadee, nuthatch, and great-crested flycatcher, move in once the home is vacated. A snag located on a waterway or wetland will attract a different variety of wildlife. Wood ducks, hooded mergansers, common goldeneyes, and buffleheads use cavities for nesting, while herons, egrets, eagles, and osprey use tall snags for nesting and lookouts. Snags in open fields will provide lookouts for some types of hawks and owls, and homes for flickers, kestrels, and eastern bluebirds. A snag in a backyard setting will provide homes for house wrens, black-capped chickadees, red-bellied woodpeckers, and flying squirrels.
Fallen Logs

Fallen logs are snags that have toppled over or healthy trees that were felled, usually by windthrow. Once these trees fall to the ground, they do not lose their value to wildlife. On the contrary, they are highly beneficial. Fallen logs in or near water provide cover for various species of fish. Male ruffed grouse use fallen logs in their attempts to attract females with their springtime courtship drumming. Chipmunks use fallen logs as runways through the forest. Hollow logs will be used by a number of species for dens, especially in the winter. If the log is big enough, foxes and even bears will use it for this purpose. As the log becomes more decayed it becomes home to salamanders, moles, shrews, earthworms, and many kinds of insects. Eventually, these fallen logs will regenerate the forest as they return to the soil, providing rich nutrients for new plants to grow from.
Structural Homes

Vegetative homes may take several years to become suitable for wildlife. Therefore, you may want to create structural homes for wildlife that may be more quickly occupied. Structural homes are those that are not grown, but are instead arranged in some manner to create cover for wildlife. This could mean that the structure was arranged naturally, such as a natural brush or rock pile. Providing structural homes will help to diversify your yard, as it will supply a ready-to-use home for wildlife.
Brush Piles

Brush piles, which consist of dead limbs and brush, will provide many species, such as rabbits, chipmunks, ground-nesting birds, amphibians, and reptiles, with escape cover. Brush piles are most beneficial when placed along habitat edges and near food sources. However, do not place a brush pile at the base of a snag, as this will promote predation. The base of the brush pile should consist of larger materials such as logs or rocks, so as to provide tunnels and openings at ground level. The pile should be six to eight feet tall and at least 15 feet wide. "Living" brush piles can be constructed by cutting into small, trees and shrubs so that the tops fall to the ground, while enough of the tree is uncut so it remains alive, forming a base for a larger brush pile. A brush pile that is buried underground forms a hibernation mound for snakes. Refer to the chapters on Rabbits, and Frogs, Turtles and Snakes for further information.
Rock Piles

Rock piles provide another form of cover for several species. Rock piles near wet areas or in gardens are especially appealing to those species that require moist, shaded areas such as frogs, snakes, salamanders, and insects. In areas near habitat edges, species such as rabbits and chipmunks will use the piles as escape cover.
Nest boxes

Artificial houses provide nesting sites for many species of birds and mammals. These nest boxes are usually wooden rectangular boxes of various sizes. Different species also require different sized entrance holes. Making the house for a specific species will lessen competition for nesting sites. A hinged side or roof should be provided, as it will allow for easy access for cleaning. Also, avoid houses made of metal as they overheat in warm weather, killing bird eggs. Do not use birdhouses with perches as this promotes invasion by exotic bird species such as house sparrows and starlings. These birds are not federally protected, and should be removed whenever possible as they will kill native birds and take over nest boxes.

A nest box that is 5 1¼2 x 11 1¼2 inches in size will attract house wrens, black-capped chickadees, white-breasted nuthatches, mice, and flying squirrels. House wrens nest in wooded, shrubby habitats and are one of the most common backyard birds. Their nest boxes are best placed five to 20 feet above the ground, and in a tree or under the eaves of a building. The entrance should be one inch in diameter. Wren houses can be free hanging and should not have a perch. Mice will also use these sized houses for winter dens. Beware that this may prevent birds from using the house when they return in the spring. Black-capped chickadees will nest in these boxes in areas that have mature trees. Their nest boxes should be mounted 5 to 10 feet high in areas that have both sun and shade, have an entrance hole of 1 1/8 inch diameter, and should not have a perch. White-breasted nuthatches will nest in areas similar to that of the black-capped chickadee. These boxes should be placed in wooded areas about 12 to 20 feet above ground. They require an entrance hole of 1 1¼4 inch diameter. This box will also be used by flying squirrels.

A box that is about 5 1¼2 x 10 inches in size, and with an entrance hole that is oblong in shape (1 3/8 inches x 2 1¼4 inches), will be used by tree swallows and bluebirds. These boxes should be placed in pairs approximately 25 feet apart to reduce competition between these two species. The entrance to the box should be placed so that it is facing east. These species will nest in areas comprised of a mix of hardwood forests and grasslands, and tree swallows are more abundant near water. These boxes are often placed on fencerows, and can actually be made in a fence post. Refer to the chapter on Bluebirds in the Species Management section for information on how to build this type of nest box.

Purple martins will nest in community houses, as they are not territorial species. This house is large, with many housing compartments in it. The entrance holes are located on all sides of the house, and an empty central space is important. These houses should be eight to 10 ft high and placed at least 30 feet from trees.

Northern flickers nest in farm groves, orchards, woodlots, and in urban areas. They will use nest boxes made of 1 1¼2 inch thick boards that are filled to the top with saw dust. The sawdust simulates the soft interior of a dead tree and will be excavated by the flicker. The entrance hole should be 2 1¼2 inches in diameter. The sawdust will need to be placed in the box every year before April 1 to be ready for the flicker's arrival.

Bats, those beneficial mosquito catchers, will live together in communities in bat houses near wet areas. Bat houses can be various sizes, but the common feature is a bottom entry made by several slats placed one inch apart. The inner surfaces of the house should be roughened to facilitate climbing, and rough outer surfaces are also helpful. Bat houses should be kept at a temperature of about 80 to 90 degrees. This can be done by covering the top with tarpaper, or by painting the house black. The houses should be placed on a tree trunk, metal pole, or the side of a building, preferably facing east, about 10-12 feet above the ground. If placed on a tree, it should be a fairly isolated one with a sheet of tin around the tree and under the house to deter raccoons. Otherwise, the bats will be heavily preyed upon. Refer to the chapter on Bats in the Species Management section for information on how to build a bat house.

Boxes that are larger, about 9 x 15 inches, will house squirrels and kestrels. Squirrels are abundant in back yards, woodlots, and farm groves. The entrance to a squirrel box should be three inches in diameter and is located on the side of the box instead of in the front. A piece of wood can be nailed inside the box just below the entrance hole to provide an observation perch. Squirrel boxes should be placed facing either east or south at least 15 feet above ground in trees at least 10 inches in diameter. Kestrels are abundant in agricultural areas with scattered trees. Kestrel houses are the same as squirrel houses except for the entrance hole placement. These houses should be placed on a 10 to 30 feet high post or tree that is near grassy areas. They should have a sheet of tin secured around the tree under the house to prevent squirrels from using it.

Raccoon houses are large (12 inches x 24 inches), with an entrance hole of 4 1¼2 inches in diameter. This box should be placed on live or dead trees of at least 12 inches in diameter, at a height of 10 to 20 feet.

Wood duck houses have greatly benefited this species. These houses are 9 1¼4 x 18 inches with an oval entrance hole that is three inches high and four inches wide. This hole will exclude most raccoons. These houses should be placed on an isolated tree or post 16 feet high, and with a tin sheet secured under the house to prevent squirrel use and raccoon predation. Watch for starling occupation in these boxes, and remove any suspect nests.
Shelves and baskets

Robins, Barn swallows, and Eastern Phoebes will utilize nesting shelves. These shelves are open to the front, but covered on the sides and top. Robins are often seen in backyards, and their shelves can be placed about six to 10 feet above ground on a wall by a window or on a tree trunk. Barn swallows are common on farmsteads, and usually use a mud nest stuck to the sides of a building. Therefore, nesting shelves should be placed on a house or barn at least 10 to 20 feet away from doorways. Eastern phoebes are the most common shelf nest builders. Their shelves should be placed under the eaves of houses near lakes, rivers, or most wooded areas.

Mourning doves and mallards will nest in baskets. These baskets can be made of wire mesh formed into a cone. Both baskets are similar, but vary in size. Mourning doves will nest in a basket that is 12 inches in diameter and placed in the crotch of a tree limb six to 16 feet above ground as far from the trunk as possible. Mallards will nest in larger baskets. Their baskets have a 26 inch diameter, and are placed over water on a seven to eight foot support pipe. Placing nesting materials in these baskets will facilitate use by these species.
Other structures

An underground den for rabbits can be made by placing a wooden box with two side entrances into the ground and covering it with brush. Each entrance should have three to four field tiles that lead above ground. This den should not be placed in areas that are not well drained.

A squirrel den can be made from discarded automobile tires. The tire den should be placed 15 to 30 feet above ground in a tree with the entrance hole facing the trunk. This is not as aesthetically pleasing as wooden boxes, but it is highly functional and a good way to recycle your tires.

In summary, there are many ways to add the habitat component of cover to your property. Providing homes, either vegetative or structural, is a good way to help fulfill this requirement in your backyard. Observing the wildlife that use the homes you have provided is not only fun, but educational.

DNR
http://www.michigan.gov/dnr/0,1607,7-153-10370_12148---,00.html

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